17.5.07

Finally



It's really cold today and rainy.

Yesterday a new SW swell arrived. I was stuck at work with no hope of sneaking out for a surf. T said it was really good at his favourite SS.

Got off of work at noon. I couldn't sleep last night -the anticipation of head high waves was too much.

Daydreamed of winning the lotto and taking a trip to Cali. I surfed in the LA area, shopped for new Lis styled twin keels at Mollusk, stopped in OB for some shorepound beatdown and visited Danny Hess's shop to drool over nice wood and put in my order.

Ah to dream while awake in the middle of the night...

Hopefully the wind will switch. Water temp is up to 37 degrees F. Air temp is in the 40's.

6 comments:

Foulweather... said...

I've had that same dream. I still llove San Francisco, despite all the changes of recent years. One day, I'm getting a quad fish of Hess...

Great pics btw. Love to surf a hurricane swell up your way one day.

ras said...

Any time you ready P. We have left points, right points, rocky bottoms, anything you want. September and October last year was pumping and the water and air temp were perfect.

Gazelle said...

Damn, spring comes late up your way. I bet the lack of crowds and scenery makes up for that, though...

nmm said...

Sounds cold....looks pretty.

lawless said...

'tup RAS!

Got in a fun head high session the day before I left. 2 hours of trunkin' it was nice especially given the week I've had. Got a few fun ones on the rocketfish.

NC is nice as shit this time of year. 65 during the day and beautiful. Going flying in the morning up to the mountains to fuck around. I'll drop you some pics tomorrow hopefully. Little man is loving hanging out with all the family.

I'll try and drop ya an email when I get shit sorted out on G2's new computer. Just easier to drop you a line on here for now.

Hope you score some waves.

peas out.

c. said...

Man, do I ever I miss the ocean. This is the longest stretch away from the water in almost 13 years and it'll be another 2 weeks before I get back.
I hope you can hit the reef or the moose after work on Monday.