17.7.07

email to D$. no dawn...


...was in the water by 5:30. it was so foggy that after about 20 yards passed the boardwalk I turned around and couldn't see the stairs. I walked about as far as felt normal to the reef and started wadding in. I could not see more than 10 yards or so. there was no way to tell where it was breaking. I paddled straight out and then down towards where I thought the reef would be, looking for the low tide boils. finally I found the spot. it was glassy but the waves were sort of messy and peaky. sets were head high. got a few waves but could never get my feet right and fell a lot. it was humbling. I've been a bit big headed after the last two sessions and today kicked me ass. it would have been nice to have the new 6"6" Biofaom instead of the FFF green machine.



after a while the sun burned off the fog and I scored a few fun lefts. Then about 45 minutes before i had to get out of the water the fog came back like a blanket, turning daylight into twilight. finally caught some whitewater back in after a three hour session. I've been dead tired at work all day but it was worth it. made it in to work by 10 am. skipped lunch.

respec
all photos by Baldiri

2 comments:

pushingtide said...

Nice! Love them foggy surfs. Feels like you are in your own little world. But I guess not that much fog!

Congrats on the new house!

lawless said...

Nice skrilla!
Loving the pics with with posts. Keep that shiat up, who needs sleep? It's 1:00am and I'm still working, gotta be up at 6 for work. If there were waves, I'd just niam some coffee and go surf in a few hours but alas, it is summertime in Florida. 15M kite, soon come.