email to D$...

"D$

Sorry I couldn't chat much yesterday and thanks for calling by the way. I had an amazing day.

I called in sick in the morning because when I got to the beach the swell wasn't showing yet and the wind was still blowing onshore. I sat around the coast from first light waiting and watching a few newbies struggling in the shit waves.

Finally, as the tide dropped I realized that the waves would not be working there even if the wind switched and decided to drive to another spot. I got to the next spot and it looked big and choppy at the beach break and the point wasn't working at all. The wind was still blowing side-onshore.

After about ten minutes the wind suddenly switched. It was strange how noticeably the wind switched. It was as if I'd willed it to. There was no one else around but my two friends and I. We watched for another ten minutes as the wind cleaned up the surf and started to feather the tops of the waves. The beach break that you checked out when you were here was going off. It was like a good day at Picnic Tables. The waves were a solid chest to head high and thumpy. There were plenty of lefts and rights. The tide was all the way out when we paddled out making it deep on the inside leading up to the first shallow sandbar where the waves impacted with enough strength to keep most people from making it out to the lineup. After a serious struggle I made it and quickly caught my first left and flew like I haven't for a long time. I forgot how much fun some heavy shorepoound can be.

There are two types of fun days. The days when the waves are peeling perfectly at the points and you get in a lot of turns and you feel like you’re surfing well. Then there are the days when the waves are heavy and sketchy and it’s all you can do to race the sections and make the late take offs. Both days are fun but completely different. Yesterday was a sketchy day. I got tons of waves and maybe a few good turns but the best part was just the speed of steep beach break.

The soy board is great. It’s really the first high performance thruster I’ve had. Well I guess I had a 6’4” when I lived in Kona but that was a long long time ago and it didn’t last long. The only bad thing yesterday was getting punched in the face by my board after getting smacked by a closeout. It’s a good thing that the water is right some cold. Otherwise I’d look more like a chipmunk today.

After the session I came home and made a good paella for some friends. It was probably the best way I could have celebrated my birthday –good waves, good food and good friends. I don’t need anything else.


Respect,

r"