26.2.08

lefts



We got dumped on Friday night. The system brought with it some fun waves Saturday evening and Sunday morning with light offshores.



This isn't the left I surfed but it sure did look like a perfect trimming wave. The one I rode was west of this one and broke a bit faster and steeper as it wrapped into the bay. I was lucky enough to enjoy solid chest to head high glassy walls with just one other person on Sunday morning.

Who needs church?


top photo by B. the other by ras

1 comment:

Malcolm Johnson said...

who needs church?

that IS church.