21.2.08

rights



I surfed two sunset sessions this week -tuesday and wednesday. tuesday was big, messy, the angle on the swell was wrong for the spot I chose. the left was eating itself and then fizzling out over the rocks at mid-tide. i got one descent drop on my 6'8" mini-gun.



last night was a different story all together. the swell had dropped a bit, 3 meters at 12 seconds. I went to a favorite right hander. it's one of the best waves in my neighborhood. I was lucky to score it at chest to head high with one other guy. it's a long point wave and on most days there's hardly a section. the wave is perfect. it's one of the few waves that maintains it's strength as it moves closer to shore. I've never ridden it when it's barreling but I've heard it does some of that too.



It's cold but when the rights are good you forget about the discomfort. Here are two types of boots to wear in winter.

10 comments:

Daniel said...

Nice!

Gazelle said...

I second that.

Even looks warm in the photos...

ras said...

It's nice boys but it ain't warm. by the time I got out of the water my forehead was numb, speech was slurred, and I couldn't feel stubbing my toe on the rocks 'till they thawed a bit. But the wave were lots of fun and I had them all to myself for the alst half hour.

Foulweather... said...

That's it. I'm coming to visit.

Gazelle said...

I said "looks" warm...

ras said...

come on out FW.

and Gaz I hear that there's some good fishin here two -trout and salmon. hopin to do some trout fishing myself as possible.

surf/fishing trip. bring lots of PBR.

Gazelle said...

I'll steer the boat and dispense the beers.

nm said...

Looks lovely. Cold doesn't scare me... am I still b-b-b-blue?

tres_arboles said...

What? No snow. Eh, what da matter wit' da maritimes dere's no snow on da gound? (chuckling).

David

ras said...

tres arboles,

that photo was taken on Wednesday last week after a heavy +1 C. rainfall that washed away teh snow. we got dumped on Friday night and you'll see snow in tonights post titled Lefts.

Thanks for all the comments guys and gals. Much Mahalos and se los agradesco infinitamente seen.