warming up to the crowds

The following less than stellar photos were taken with my point and shoot snapper this past Sunday. The swell was coming from an unusual angle for us and some spots were not seeing it at all.



Nevertheless, with wave forecasting sites showing promise days ahead using a star rating system, the masses dust off their winter suits after not using them since November and pull out their mostly pop-out boards and head for the beach.




I know this is beginning to sound a little jaded. But when I really look into it I don't think I'm jaded yet, about the crowds, the lack of knowledge, paddling through the lineup, taking off without looking over one's shoulder, you know the drill. Problem is you get used to being one of two or three sharing waves. And when the place suddenly has fifteen to twenty is makes a difference.



Of course, for those who surf year-round, crowds are more a nuisance than a hindrance. For year-rounders have strong paddling muscles, a good sense of the various take off zones and line-ups on the beach, and an overall confidence in the water. So as the crowds arrive in their peed-in rental suits and claim their spot in the line-up waiting for their turn, I'll just keep paddling, head up, back arched, feet together, one deep stroke after another, looking at the horizon for the rising that will denote the next set. And as the set approaches -paddling, for position, to stay warm, to feel self propulsion, to feel strength. What is surfing but the love of paddling? He who does not love to paddle will sit and freeze and get the dregs of mostly short period east coast small kine wind swell. Spring is finally here.