south swell 6' @ 11 secs.

was up at 4:30 this mornin. made coffee and called the bouy. significant wave height was 1.8 metres at 11 seconds and no wind.

the drive -listening to a broadcast of Romanian news during the CBC's off hours. fog patches made for sliding from dawn to dusk as the fog waxed and waned. on beach side the fog was thick like oatmeal. no way to see the lineup.

blacks and I suited up and took our Neilson floaty fishes. i shoulda taken the bonzer but it's a ten minute walk and we couldn't see how big the waves were. even paddlin out to the lineup was done by remembering other sessions there as we couldn't see shite.

two other guys were in the water before us and good vibes all around. everyone hootin and hollerin on the take off and kickouts. "give 'er."

the waves were mackin. head high plus and just firin down the point. on the fishie I'd get in early and pump like hell to make the first section, then just swooping turns down along the rocky point, careful not to catch a fin on the boils as they popped up through the face.

after almost three hours I was done. tired and cold. happy to be in the water again. joyful for a healthy body and mind. surfing has the ability to set all our priorities in order like that. one good wave, one late take off 'till the rail grabs and sends you screamin down the face, can completely change your outlook on life.

give thanks.


pushingtide said...

So true how one late drop flyin' down the line can change your outlook.

Nice on gettin' up at 4:30. I imagine it is A LOT harder to do back where you are. Stoked your stoked. Nice!

Mick said...

Fantastic Ras. Now I wish I'd stayed out longer the other day.