wednesday dp report

was at the spot by ten to six this mornin and there were eight cars there already. some guys been out since five. the wave was not as good as last week but still GOOD. I finally got to ride the bonzer. goes really well going frontside. local pro was out killin it. the guy turns where others run for the shoulder. there were other rippers out too. it was crowded even by Brevard or Southern Cali standards but the vibes were still good for the most part.

things I'm diggin on lately:

reading books (the paper ones)
Biofoam Bonzer by Tom Neilson
Foulweather blog
running
writing
Capleton
B