21.9.08

phone photo



here's one the Dr. took at a secret spot last winter. super cold that day but there were some fun ones. green machine holdin.

surfed about four hours today on the log at a nice beach. the water crystal and no gloves or boots. cool heads in the lineup and lots of small waves to go around.

15 steps -no stumblin

1 comment:

Colleen said...

sounds like a beautiful day in the water!