dawn ruminations

been up since five. folded the laundry, made some breakfast. sipping on coffee now listening to Midnite. it's really cold. minus 8 C. icy too. no matter. leaving here inna short while to check the points. the wind is still gusting to thirty kilometers so it's sure to be cold in the line up. paddle to stay warm. if I only surfed for riding waves I'd go back to bed. to see the sun rise and the steam coming off the harbour is enough to get me outta bed.

someone once said to me with reprimand "why be complacent?" perhaps I'm complacent about the state of things. and as a man blessed and fortunate, and if your reading this you too are fortunate, must I fight against humanities inhumanity? I suppose I could get up and fight -contribute to the violence and strife. no. I will not. if it's just this one go round I get then I am going surfing. I'll watch the sun rise and the wind blow -the snow fall, turn to ice and then wash away with the warming rain. from morning to sundown I'll be a watcher and a walker, feeling myself moving through space with all senses peaked. if you see me wave and smile and I'll do likewise. I will do my best not to judge you. I will hope that you too feel the wind. the wind is not delirious and absurd.