Often we get to see images of people surfing in amazing locations like the Mentawais or in huge waves like Pipe. I wonder how many of us though would really have the balls or the skills to surf Pipe or Waimea on a big day?

I'm fairly certain that I couldn't make a go of it at Pipe -even if it was just me and D$ in the line up. So when I see a photo like the one above of Flea takin a macker on the head I get a little quiet. Those guys have a different personality type altogether. Sure it's just surfing. But as men who use their wits and tendons and muscles to get through a heavy life they are grand. respec!

the Eddie is on in 25 to 30 foot waves.


Kim said...
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Gazelle said...

It's an interesting question you ask. I've watched big (and "merely" head high) Pipe on a few occasions and it just seems insane to imagine myself out there. It's not just the jacking face and free fall drops (though of course that's part of it). With some practice I could make some of those drops, but the tight and aggressive crowd is something I don't need or want to deal with. Forget about really big Mavs or Waimea.

Mother Ocean can slap you around pretty good at a heavy spot, but do I really need 40 dudes and a sharp coral reef right next to me at the same time? I don't think so. Respect, and thanks to those that do it for giving the rest of us something really cool to watch. I'll take a nice, lined up head to head and a half point break, please.

Anonymous said...