more time things are not as they seem. clouds of doubt and distilled grains can impede some clear thoughts. other times they allow thoughts to flow from a place usually hidden. more time I just don't flow. nature must take over. I remember my good friend TT. gone up the road on his his bike, calves flexin and tires smokin and he's gone for a spin and his nature takes over. it's like surfin too I reckon. if you learn to paddle and catch waves then just forget those things and let nature take over. one hit off the top gets you the speed to make it 'round the section and then set the rail and trim and you know the rest. can't fight it. why bother. grace and style come when the ego is out of the way. and yet I may as well be everyman. not superman. conscious man but not rasta man. ego trippin. thinkin 'bout the me and the I all the time. that's what this page is for innit? don't know why some of you keep comin back. maybe you want to know about surfing. haven't missed a swell in two and half years. but I cannot write about it time after time. it's fleeting. I got a wave yesterday that made my hair stand on end. now I can't recall it. so it goes. and yet I look at these keys and I'm prodded by some unseen hand to go on and push on this button and then that. to string a few words together to make a sentence. but it don't make sense. all of this that we've created. as I said before it's absurd. you have to laugh. and go surf. and use things. and abstain and revel. you have to cry and dance. you have to run! when's the last time you ran? you have to carry your own weight. figuratively and literally. and all the while letting go of ego. flowing. like pelicans surfing Mexican waves. like bees bringing home pollen. like bike messengers in Manhattan. like eels in reefs. like the cycle of the sun and moon. are you still reading? goodnight.
9.12.08
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3 comments:
Excellent. I keep reading...because I can. My writing is blocked...so I look to others. Others that can express....what I may be thinking/feeling/needing. Surf on.
nice.
Still reading. Many days you make more sense than anything else I have read all day. Thanks.
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