11.12.08

row

had two sessions this week. surfed almost four hours Monday with just a few others. slightly overhead, barreling, fast, snow on the bluff and everywhere.

then again this morning. small kine, the tide too high, the swell angle better for that other point but work got in the way. lots of clean little waves, turns and flowing with some cool heads. I give thanks for these days of nature and cold and feeling alive and not numb.

2 comments:

lawless said...

Glad to hear you got out. Scored some fun after-storm glass off yesterday afternoon. Nice change of pace from all the chop. Weekend looks to be more chop with NE winds. 3 days in a row though, good for me. Looks like next week will be full of big, messy liquid lunch sessions.

Anonymous said...

Surfin' seeing snow is something I definitely don't know. Nice!

Congos never go out of style.

-push