alone at an A-frame

wow. sometimes my luck is so good that I don't even wanna tell you for fear of sounding boasty.

the alarm went off at six I awoke startled and completely lost. after an instant I remembered that I was going surfing. I slipped into my wetsuit and booties and loaded up the blue flame after putting out the garbage and recycling. the drive was uneventful, if a little gray. the stacks were plumbing west but lightly so.

I arrived at the A-frame and took a peak. one guy out but in the wrong position, too far east. I watched it for a minute and then drove down to check two other spots. a small crew was floating out back waiting for sets. the horizon appeared flat. I went back to the A-frame. from the lot the left looked small. it always deceives.

mitts on and down the rocky icy path. I paddled out through the flat bay towards the peak and a little past where I thought I should sit. one came through and peaked up, wrapping towards me with speed and threatening to put me in too deep. I popped up to instant high speed down the face. bottom turn and tuck into the steep wall, always too far in front of the barrel. stand up straight and point the nose down for massive speed before compressing and whipping up into the face. I carve off the top, the west wind sending the spray like so much jet steam behind me. I pump down the face and compress on the bottom turn and right back up into the lip. a few more top to bottom speed pumps and kick out. stoked.

I surfed by myself for over an hour. the sets were overhead and the third wave in the set would swing wide and line up towards the west. there were barrel sections on the set waves. I tried a few, saw the lip above me on one but didn't get that fabled sound. foiled again. as I write these words my body is cold but completely relaxed. what an amazing opportunity I have to able to surf. for this I humbly give thanks.