all day surfing wednesday

here's JB making the best of a Wednesday morning. Doc posted up on the bank and took a couple of shots before suiting up. secret spot all the way. I'd have to kill ya. we surfed three hours in the morning then changed out of our wetsuits, had some lunch and watched the waves. then it was back in for another two hours. super heavy off shore winds all day. good times had by the small crew and I'm a tired one now. making some rose and prosciutto sauce with penne for B and then it's off to bed.