tired boss

winds 14 G 18-N 34/34 6'@ 13 seconds

the Doc and I met Blacks for an old time session. check two spots and decide on a secret location. no one out. north-north east winds. a few peaks here and there. paddle across the headland and get some lefts where there shouldn't be. swell straight out da east makin for some funny angles at the usual spots. no one out. two hours and our feets is numb. the Doc just in from out yonder freezing from lack of acclimation. two hour nap at noon and already had a full day.

no seal and hawk sitting like yesterday but I did manage a sub-zero sunburn on me face.


B and are making food for birthday Doc.

on the menu: tacos 'al pastor with roasted pineapple and home made tortillas. salsa the agaucate picante with chips and scallop ceviche with cucumber and mango.

orale güey. dame tres por favor.


Jamie Watson said...

Oh my gosh, I can barely remember what I just read before the part about that delicious dinner you are going to make. Seriously that is one of the most delicious sounding dinners I have ever heard of in my entire life.

colleen said...

sounds muy rico and like an amazing day. nothing like homemade tortillas and tacos al pastor. We head to Mexico on Tuesday and I am in the mood for that delicious, simple kind of food. buen provecho!

Anonymous said...

What an awesome day it was!!! Sunny and clear but very cold. Waves were fun and the food was insane. Much thanks to B and RAS for all their hard work. Good to have the Doctor back even if it is just for a few days.
Still full from last night and time to kook out- Blacks on a longboard, yikes.


Flying said...

really nice blog I just discovered.
Keep up the good posts !


Anonymous said...

I was prepared to be out of surfing shape but I was not prepared for the cold; despite the fact that I surfed the same cold water for the last 5 winters.
Thanks for everything R and B.

pushingtide said...

Please fed-ex me the leftovers of the al pastor....it'll still be good I bet.

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