weekend surfs

surfed the past two days. on saturday I waited all day long for the wind to come around as forecasted. and it did come around but the waves were tiny. I brought my fish and should have had the log. the dribbly knee high waves were barely rideable and I paddled around for an hour just to stay loose.

yesterday after making B some bacon and heart-shaped pancakes I got online to check the buoys. 5' @ 8 seconds meant that there should something somewhere. I grabbed my log this time and went for a drive. as I walked out over the bluff I could see way out to sea, the coast to the east zigging and zagging into the many bays and inlets. there was no one out, no one in sight at all for the matter. a three wave set rolled in at what looked to be waist high if a little smaller. perfect. I suited up and scaled the bluff,careful not to loose footing and end up with a broken neck.

the water is still ridiculously cold and the air temps was around -8 C. I paddled out and waited for a few moments for the first wave and it came, they came. for two hours I surfed mostly alone. the only memorable wave was a waist high wall that actually had some form. as I bottom turned the board drifted up into the lip as an egg railed sled will and I walked out to the nose. it felt locked as I was in the cheater five stance so I brought my left foot forward and stood tall, two boot tips over and the wave face below.

it seems crazy to go surfing in this terrible cold when the waves are barely big enough to push you along. but what else am I to do? it's too cold and icy outside to do anything else and the thought of sitting around all winter getting stiff and old is not comforting. at some point B and I will have to look south again, to somewhere where wearing a t-shirt outdoors is the norm. I don't care if the waves are tiny or sketchy or huge as long as I can surf. but for now I am in love with this cold place, its view-scapes, its customs and its people.

I like Tyler Warren's style. He's not too epileptic and yet not to easy.


tres_arboles said...

nice report. the closest I go to any two-footed action this weekend was a nice mild downhill skate with my son. pics coming.

Mick said...

God love ya Ras. I've gotta do that up there one day.