thursday surf
JB picked me up at 5:15. we were in the water before sunrise. the waves were small but secret sandbar plain sight number 5's was doin its high tide thing again. warbly and shifty. not as good as the last time I surfed it. still if you got on the ones that walled towards the east you could make the inside section. just a few little pumps and huggin the steep little face before it closed out over the cobbles and dry sand.
maybe one day I'll get to the point where I go and look at it and decide it's too junky and go home. for now though if I think I can ride it then I'm on it. and now at work having already had a full day I feel at peace and completely happy.
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4 comments:
Was that last comment directed at me? Had stuff to do. When you live at the beach you can be a bit more picky.
I just came home from one of those surfs full of surprises. Choppy, dark sky and sea, mushy, all alone...but each wave full of perfect little surprises.
Thanks for the hood trick. It just made my life a bit more pleasing.
not directed at you at all. sometimes it just surprises me that I get up at a quarter to five and surf marginal waves and still have a blast and never regret it. surfing is just that good.
hey congratulations by the way.
Yeah...congrats to you as well. Not sure what this journey has in store for us. Maybe a few less dawn patrols, at least a few less surf dawn patrols. I reckon it will be worth it. Heard the placenta today. Amazing.
I had one of those great marginal wave surfs today. So much fun and peace on a day that one could have been justified for just driving by.
hmmm I might need to take a trip with the family to your hood
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