maritime fall

in the valley the leaves are
red, orange, yellow
pink
at the bay
colours grey
baby seal watching as I
struggle with the set,
duck diving and going backwards
baby seal watching
and more waves coming
out the back
meanwhile
Blacks is there
and others
the wind from the southwest
the inside finally releases
its grip
and I make my way back
to the lineup
where’s my spot?
ok I think here I
fit
and then it comes,
a long wall
probably a closeout
the hell with it
go
bottom turn and
down the line,
all white like mountain ranges out west
the wall comes down
again the inside holds me
for another set
baby seal is gone
Blacks is gone
there’s no red in the bay yet
all is grey