weak heart

my friend Evil E was going through some old photos and found these of me -I think they are from fall/winter of 2007. the board was a Tom Neilson 6'6" biofoam thruster. I got rid of it soon after that as it was a bit too big for me.

I'd like to think I've improved my surfing since these shots were taken but who knows.

self critique: the bottom turn mid-face and standing almost straight up is weak hearted at best. I also won't have any speed going into the top turn. it's funny though I have the Andy Downs front hand stylee. I'll have to tell that story another time though.

the same weak heart goes for the top turn here. it looks as if I backed off instead of really pushing off the top.

this is my favourite shot because you can see how beautiful it is here. sure the water at this time of year is O C. and the air often way bellow that. but the beauty of the landscapes and the generous people are like no where else I've ever lived. thanks Evil!


tres_arboles said...

...and there are five guys out.

Word Verification--"toessest" as in "your toessest are the coldest."


Toddy said...

Great lineup.

nm said...

that last shot is beauty!

Anonymous said...

Cool pictures of Dog H. Who took these pics?


Rick said...

hey Doc. not DH. another right

Chum said...

Nice shots!

Anonymous said...

Me ha gustado mucho el post "we care a lot", y la Ășltima foto de este post es increible. Aunque tanta belleza no me hace olvidar los 0ÂșC.

Un abrazo enorme primo.


Eef said...

it always feels al lot better than it looks, so don't mind the pictures :)