12.11.09

the buzz and the hive

there's a buzz a buzzin. everyone is still high from last Friday's lines which at some places had more power than we've seen inna while.

the surfing community here is an interesting one. about 80% are beginners who usually don't surf in the winter. then there's the middle ground, weekend warriors, committed to year 'round surfing but may not make every swell.

and of course there's the core guys who are always out. the guys who have arranged their lives, jobs and everything else in order to give them the freedom every time the buoys lights up. the guys who know exactly where to go once they know the wind and swell direction.

this type exists everywhere but somehow I feel that here it's different than other places I've lived.

maybe it's the bitter fucken cold. or maybe it's the East Coast culture. but it is different. in the lineup with the crew it's still very competitive and there is a pecking order. but there is also camaraderie and smiles among acquaintances, even if you know them only by how they surf and how the hooded wetsuit frames their face. you'd see them on the street in plain clothes and you may not know that that was the person sharing overhead freezing rights the morning before.

there are waves coming now. it's winter. see you guys out there.

3 comments:

tres_arboles said...

Interesting observation on the core guys in your set.

I was one of those out here for the first four or five years after I finally retired from Rugby. I managed to surf most of the clean big winter swells in deepest darkest December and January when the rest of snowboard crowd left the beach for the winter.

And yet the other "core" guys I encountered were always so fucken miserable. Giving anyone they didn't know the stink eye, even if they had been surfing with them on nearly every good winter swell for the past few years.

I always showed alone, never took pictures, and never fronted, but I never got a smile out of anyone but the part timers that were stoked to have chosen their day and time correctly.

Enjoy what you have, it seems pretty rare.

Eef said...

maybe their face was to frozen up to smile :D

but much respect to all those people who surf in Canada in winter. brrrrr

eef
monsterboards.org

Anonymous said...

Well said RAS, well said!



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