adventuring

big bombs. shifty. high tide refracting off the headland and making it all warbly.

got a few really good ones, a few not so good ones.

got pitched on about a 10 foot face, hood filled with ice water and felt like I would pass out. stunned as I finally came up for a gasping breath.

another wall of white water. try to duck dive to no avail. the white lifting me and pressing me down down down towards the bottom.

cold. stunned.

paddle exhausted towards the bay and back to position.

all in all a good session but I won't make a habit of going far from home. more hours driving than surfing.

still it was just a friend and I on a mackin point, the bows of the trees laden with fresh snow, the water a deep turquoise, and the sun shining it's mid-winter warmth on our faces.

tired tonight.

a good tired.