10.1.10

first surf of the year

had my first dip in the ocean in the new year today. the water has gotten a bit colder since the last time I surfed at home -about a month ago. I rode the log for about two hours in mostly waist high glassy rights. today was most definitely a login day. lotsa guys on shortboards but only three of them could make a go of it with such small mushy surf. the photo below is from a place I checked but chose not to surf. looks good too though.



it's a new year and really for me that don't mean much. my calender seems to revolve more around surf seasons. the difference this year is that I start a new job in two weeks. over the past three years I've had a lot of flexibility to surf when there is swell. I have certainly taken advantage of that freedom too, missing nary a swell with just a couple of exceptions. in job interviews I always make it clear that work/life balance is as important to me as pay. usually that approach pays off as the old saying says "you never know until you ask."

really though I am looking forward to a little change even if I am apprehensive about not surfing as much. perhaps one day soon I'll figure out the angle to surf more and work less. in the meantime I'll keep hustlin for more water time.