alive in the ether

inspiration is like the ether. if it’s there we cannot see it. Monday night’s amazing sunset session set some ideas straight for me and left me inspired.

one: learning the nuances of a board takes time and patience

two: that patience pays off grandly as I explore new parts of a wave

three: I can slide my foot back over the fins mid-face to power through a turn –just gotta be present in the moment to remember

four: slowing the wave down and watching it while it does its thing in front of you is stupid hard

five: if I can manage to slow it down then I can surf it with more poise than a flailing monkey dancing to an accordion on old cobbled streets

on a side note –stoked to have a new side project with Drift magazine. I will be writing a jazz inspired blog a few times a month.