hurtin in NYC

big rouge sets coming through last night. the fog was so thick that you'd barely see them out there till it was too late to try and out paddle them.

I rode a few waves but not many. it seemed like for the first time I was pushing the limits of my 5'8" fishy. not enough rail for the amount of water moving.

I tried going late on one that swung wide. I never had a chance. the rip moving along the rocky headland was powerful and relentless.

I was way out front when I went on the wide one, within two minutes I'd been dragged and dunked all the way into the bay, gasping for air between exhausted duck dives.

this morning I feel sore and tired. my shoulders are sore to the touch and my energy levels below normal. a good sore and tired though -no matter the conditions, surfing is always thoroughly satisfying -thank you very much.

the buoy reading at 6pm yesterday was 11.5' @ 13 seconds. wind ENE 11 kts gusting to 15. water temp 35.6 F.

off to New York City this afternoon. the little bruiser will get to see his aunt in her element. and B and I will enjoy some Mexican food, heavenly pizza slices, and urban absurdity.


Evan said...

Bring me back a slice homie!

Gaz said...