hurtin in NYC

big rouge sets coming through last night. the fog was so thick that you'd barely see them out there till it was too late to try and out paddle them.

I rode a few waves but not many. it seemed like for the first time I was pushing the limits of my 5'8" fishy. not enough rail for the amount of water moving.

I tried going late on one that swung wide. I never had a chance. the rip moving along the rocky headland was powerful and relentless.

I was way out front when I went on the wide one, within two minutes I'd been dragged and dunked all the way into the bay, gasping for air between exhausted duck dives.

this morning I feel sore and tired. my shoulders are sore to the touch and my energy levels below normal. a good sore and tired though -no matter the conditions, surfing is always thoroughly satisfying -thank you very much.

the buoy reading at 6pm yesterday was 11.5' @ 13 seconds. wind ENE 11 kts gusting to 15. water temp 35.6 F.

off to New York City this afternoon. the little bruiser will get to see his aunt in her element. and B and I will enjoy some Mexican food, heavenly pizza slices, and urban absurdity.

Vice guide to Liberia

one of my favourite Canadian bloggers (by way of Monrovia, Liberia)has just completed a project with Vice's VBS TV on traveling in Liberia. Liberia has an odd and often turbulent history and is now coming into its own after years of bloody civil war. The Esteyonage blog written by Myles Estey is one of my favourite places on the web. Mr. Estey gives us a view into another world. his ability to find humour in every day life in Monrovia is often a sense of inspiration for me. and once inna while Mr. Estey will post some surfy news.

new hampshire beach break

B and I drove for 10 hours yesterday and arrived at our friends house just as the tide was going low. I suited up quickly and grabbed my fish and ran the two blocks to the beach. I had not surfed a beach break since New York last fall. the waves were small and a little weak but two or three turned out to be fun. I'm not one to complain about rideable surf. it was fun to be in slightly warmer water and to surf with no leash without fearing the rocky shores like back home.

I walked down this morning at sunrise hoping that there may still be a small pulse left. no luck. but I did find this nice video clip for ya. not sure what the soundtrack is but it sounds like Orange 9mm.


Fresh Fruit for Rotten Vegetables from Surf Craft Media on Vimeo.