Waves

It's 7:20 on the far Eastern Atlantic. I just had my morning bowl of oatmeal and I'm still working on the first cup of coffee. I'm listening to a track from a group called Sound Tribe Sector Nine. My friend Nick from www.quixoticlotus.com is really into thee guys.

This past weekend we had some of the biggest waves I've seen here in Nova Scotia. Unfortunately, the waves were a bit big for most of our usual spots. On Friday I surfed a right point with a bad north drift. The first wave I went for, after scrambling from the point and paddling like a maniac to make it to the lineup, I took off and didn't make the late drop. After getting tossed around for what seemed like three minutes I surfaced only to find myself halfway down the point already. By the time I fully regained my composure I was getting out at the little white church inside the bay and heading back up the rocky beach to try my luck again from the point.

The first wave I rode was good but it was one of the smaller scragler waves. Finally I caught one of the big set waves and it was perfect. The wave is not hollow but packs a punch and the pink pintail held its line true while I raced up and down the face for about two hundred yards. I rode that wave to the white church and got out of the water, thankful for the opportunity to be healthy, have my full faculties, and be able to enjoy nature in a way that is in all practicality indescribable.

Saturday the waves were half as big at another right point. They were still slightly overhead and fun. Check the attached photo. I'm hopping for waves this weekend. My weekday surf sessions are on hold 'till I get this new schedule worked out.

Gotta go out and get some 7mm mittens this week.