Weekend Surf

Surfed Friday evening and Saturday afternoon. There was a decent sized swell coming out of the south west. But there was also a gale force wind pushing things down. We found a sheltered right point and paddled out with two other cats. Right before I got in I saw this guy take off on a perfect head high peeler. He ducked under the curtain twice on that one, then spun for the long paddle back up to the point. Witht the water temp at 32.6 degrees Fahrenheit the string and barrel clasp from my hood pull-cord were frozen solid after five minutes. We surfed for about two hours then made the cold walk back over big rocks with nubs for feet. As soon as I got out, the water on my board froze making griping the thing an unlikely proposition. Luckily I didn't drop it on the rocks.

Wind was still howling on Saturday -finally after lunch I couldn't contain myself. I put on my suit and winter jacket and made the trek out to check the waves. After a half an hour driving around checking the points and coves I made it out to L-Town. There was a wedgie shore pound ripping left into the cove at the right point. No one out. I surfed for almost two hours by myself. Victory at sea conditions with the peak rising out of the chop and slinging me down the line towards the closeout. It's the first time I've surfed a left on the green board. Speed and control were my friends. I look forward to less cold sessions.

Free Rock at the point. Come and get it.