4 out 7
Green Machine is getting some time in the water, and so are the 7mm mitts. I've surfed four out the last seven days. Yesterday being the best at overhead and freighttraning from the point to the little white church inside the bay. Today was like a dark roller coaster -bumpy and unpredictable but fast and fun - lots of paddling for sure. Surfing is like chocolate or cold beer after a hot day in the sun. Surfing is peace and exhilaration. For some of us who practice it, Surfing is more important than most other things.
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3 comments:
cool shit Ras. How short is that stick? Eerie how board, hardwood floor and 50's chair looks like it could be my and my girl's house, only difference is our chair is orangish.
Had a board just like that, green, small swallow...still have it but it is pretty much dead. Favorite board so far. Shaped by Kadowaki out of Manhattan Beach.
Wha gwaan psuh.
that board is 6'4" EPS with Rusty Vector 454 fins. They are the ones that are foiled on the inside too. Man -can run like tief yah know brejdren. Wanna see a photo of your new board too.
Ahhh the furniture, it is indeed 50's Danish sofa and chair. Very nice, minimal and comfortable.
Time for another post Ras... I miss being reminded there's somewhere colder than here.
Oh, and nice board..wish it were mine.
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