9.4.07

3 outta 4

It's a Monday evening and B's making salmon and potatoes with garlic and dill. I'm sippin on some Propeller IPA. You can get a growler jug for $8. It's cheap by Canadian standards, especially since it's quality quaff.

We've had some seriously fun sessions this weekend. Dr. Law and T and W and I surfed about 2 hours on Friday at a spot I hadn't surfed before. It was a left hander and packed a nice little punch. I posted over the big boils and was picken 'em off nice and easy. The conditions were less than perfect but hey who cares. I could use the extra muscles from too much paddling.

On Saturday the good Dr. and I decided for a later-day session and headed up the coast to a little cove we love and got some great waist to chest shore pound peelers. We stayed out for over three hours. My feet went numb, so numb that on the last few waves I couldn't actually feel the deck as I glided down the face. It's amazing that we can stay in the water for three hours when the water is literally at freezing temps (0.0 degrees Celsius). If it wasn't for the salt content we wouldn't be surfing at all. It snowed too which was quite surreal.

Today I slept 'till 9am. It's crazy I know. I had nightmares too, probably from watching Grindhouse yesterday.

After some phone calls and wind check we headed out to the spot where the lefts peel nice and easy and the big moose statue watches for outsiders. We were the first ones posted on the peak. There were four of us, soon joined by a couple of goons on borrowed longboards -they tossed and tumbled inside the takeoff making for some interesting video game style surfing. After a few minutes of floundering they were swept over the rocks at the point and eventually stumbled out.

I got my share of waves. They just kept coming. The wind was on it but they still lined up and if you kept a high line you could fly like the pelicans I miss soo much back home in the deep south. After two hours we reluctantly caught our last ten waves and paddled in like sad kids at the playground. We had to get home to our lives.

I think tomorrow morning I may go into work an hour or so late and take advantage of the waining swell and offshore winds. If I paddle out at first light I should be able to get in an hour and half or maybe two if I dare.

Sleep tight.

Art Blakey - Blues (Improvisation)

6 comments:

Mick said...

Mad bastards the lot of you, but stuff it if I don't love reading your stuff.
You guys that surf in the snow are ... I don't know...maybe the words are crazy beautiful or something.
May the sun shine on you soon Ras.. you deserve it.

lawless said...

Honestly man, everytime I hear you say the water temperature is 0ยบ, I just have to laugh. When it's snowing outside it's time to go snowboarding, although I'd be right there with you if I could. This year has sucked horribly down here, but the water is trunkable already... if that counts for anything.

raspect.

Foulweather... said...

Water's warming up nicely here but it seems you are getting better waves over there... How far do you live from the surf?

ras said...

Thanks for all the comments guys.

I live about 25 minutes drive from the closest spots but they only work on bigger swells. Otherwise it's a 35 minute drive through the country.

This morning I was in the water by 6:30am to see the sun rise and perfect glassy waves peeling off the right point.

pushingtide said...

Score! Snow! Schwack!

Anonymous said...

Saw you guys out this morning as I drove to the grid- wish I had been able to jump in. Caught a session after the grind was over. Waves weren't as big or clean as the morning but still had a few nice ones. Had almost forgotten how to go right.

High T