am email to D$

"What up D$,

Surfed some mckin waves yesterday. It wasn't huge but the waves had some serious power. Probably most waves were solid head high with the occasional overhead set. I decided to take the green board although the mini-gun would also have been a good choice. We surfed a rocky bottom spot where the left is steep and fast. I was paddling into late take-offs and going straight with foam and lip behind me then big bottom turn and fade into the pocket.

I had one wave that was soo perfectly walled that I was able to do two smooth cutbacks. I'd race out to the shoulder on a high line, do a long arc turn back towards the pocket and not quite bounce off the foam ball but turn back right in front of it. There were a couple of good shortboarders out -doing the fast whacks and quick vertical off the lips. I realized how different my approach was. I was more focused on clean and fluid turns. I am getting into a smooth groove and it feels good. Wish you were here for the phatty's.

I'm gonna make an early flex today and try to be back at the spot by noon for the high tide session with hopes that there's still some push.

raspec,

r"