Type 2 Belt

The last few weeks have moved in slow motion and I’ve fallen into a state of little physical activity. This is something I’m going to have to address for two reasons. First of all, I am not exactly mister fast metabolism. Little exercise quickly translates into a type 2 pre-diabetes belt around my mid section. Secondly, I feel terrible when I don’t get exercise. I get cranky and achy and all around feel down.

The root of the problem is the beginning of summer and low swell count (and I’m a bit lazy sometimes). Since our move to the Maritimes in late August last year I’ve surfed just about every week, and most weeks I’ve surfed more than two times, in two to three hour sessions. The last time I surfed this often was for a brief period in 2001 when I lived on the Big Island in Kona. In fact, this is the most consistently I have ever surfed since I began surfing some time around 1992. With the exception of a summer here or a few short months there, I have always had to drive at least an hour for surf. Now that I live at a short distance from a variety of good breaks I have a hard time seeing any other lifestyle. If I were to suddenly become independently wealthy, I’d have no qualms about spending my entire life in the pursuit of surf and reading and writing.

So I’m off for a run after work today. I’ll run to the gym. At the gym I’ll work on some light, high repetition free weights to strengthen my shoulders, back and core. Then I’ll run home. By the way, did I mention that it’s blowing rain and that the air temp is 5 degrees! Summer? What summer?

I envy you guys in SoCal with your summertime long period swells. But I’m bidding my time and trying to stay in shape for the stray hurricanes that take their sweet time and send some fat corduroy wrapping around our many points. I’m also putting in my order today for a new 6’6” five fin bonzer for the fall. I’ll expound more on that topic soon.