fun in the cold

T off the top in early sunrise


Sometimes you just get lucky eh. A couple of weekends ago I went for a sunrise surf with my buddy T (aka Black Spidey). We’d surfed our asses off the afternoon before in some fairly big waves with just a couple of other guys. But we had no idea how lucky we’d get that morning.

We walked out to a point that’s well known for its long fast right walls. The swell had dropped a lot from the previous night. There was one guy in the water picking them off. We suited up and as we descended the cliff the lonely surfer was getting out of the water. He would later return to take the photos you see here.

ras racing the lip



We may not get perfect hollow reef breaks with warm water. But we do get fun lined-up waves with no one out. There is a catch though. The best waves require that you surf in the thickest winter gear you can find as water temps descend to freezing in late November and the air temps can easily reach down to the low teens or even single digits –that’s without the wind-chill.

To surf or not to surf? There is no question. Surf

one more wave


all photos courtesy of S. Forbes