shorepound II

here's a photo of some of Florida's surf pioneers circa 1938. They are all riding Tom Blake style kook boxes -hollow wooden boards made much in the same way that airplane wings are made.

Speaking of Florida, I felt like I was back there this weekend. I surfed a dawn session on Saturday morning and sunset yesterday. Both days we're 1-3 feet with onshore winds. I surfed beach break with no leash on the fishy. It was just like being back at Tables or 2nd Light on those medium quality Florida days. You paddle like hell looking for any little shoulder. When you find one you go, pop up quick and get two pumps before the thing shuts down early like the Sunday beer store.

All in all I had a blast and surfing without a leash is always so fun. I lost my board a few times but that's normal. Most places around here are super rocky so no leash is out of the question.

Hoping for some more small kine wind swell this week to keep in shape for the soon to come storms. The water is super warm this year. Y'all know what that means.

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