4.3.09

going back to Hali

from PDX to Halifax and back. weird seems like deja vu. hope you guys out there in Stumptown are starting to feel spring. speaking of lack of spring, surfed this evening in -8 C air temps. unbelievable session, alone out there with reeling rights coming through head high. no one out. I made some sketchy ass drops on the 9`6`and then out to the nose for the steepest nose rides I`ve ever done. funny how different a chest to head high wave can feel on a log.

tonight`s video is josh martinez and other Halifax crew doing a play on L.L.'s classic tune. shot mostly downtown and on the McDonald bridge. rad.

my old Jamaican roommates les and hi-C grew with L.L. in NYC. lots of blunts in that Orlando apartment. they always looked at me like I was crazy headin out the door, six two 70's single under one arm.



oh and one more thing -I`ve surfed 4 out of the last 5 days. think I`m finally reaching the top rung in the ladder of success. workaholism is for the birds and boring folk.

4 comments:

Eric said...

your a lucky man.

Foulweather... said...

No sign of Spring here. Did you come through PDX recently?

ras said...

I am lucky E.

no I haven't been in stumptown since 06. the guy in the video lives there but is from here. coincidental.

pushingtide said...

lovin' it