lefts

today as I waited for the sets I witnessed the moon and the sun playing games with each other. two big orbs battling for king of the hill. it felt like I was Heston in Planet of the Apes. me -and three other guys in between them -waiting. one guy took off on a wide swinging one and got fully (stand-up) shacked.

the vibe was good. trading waves and small talk. the east in the swell made it so other likely spots were less than desirable.

my first wave was a freight train. heart beating fast. the drop was long and speedy so that bottom turns were done in the flats. if you chose the right wave and knew how you could get deep into space and then out. my average-ness showed yet my heart was full.

the photos here are mine own from today. I chose not to surf this spot and I’m glad I did.



I hope you got some waves too.

life is good when you have passion for something natural and you pursue it.

good is life.