almost barelled

Got to the spot this morning and the parking lot was fenced off. I guess they decided it was no longer a public space and they’re gonna put a house on top instead. Never mind that the bluff moves an inch a year and more when the Nor’easters have have juice and the waves lap the causeway like the hare does the tortoise.

I find a spot to squeeze the Blue Flame where it’s off the road and on the shoulder. I hop over the fence and walk though all the survey markers. Looks by the foundation like it’s gonna be a tall one –great for the homeowner’s view and shitty for everyone else without ex-ray vision. The waves are pumping. It’s a solid four to six feet with no wind and an incoming tide.

I scramble back to the Blue Flame and pop the trunk lid. My suit and booties are dry as a bone –It’s been weeks since I’ve been in the water. Spring has brought rain, the colour green, and flatness like corn fields.

I left the Bonzer at home thinking it wouldn’t be big enough. I can see it now, sitting in it’s slot in the basement on the under the staircase racks. It’s like the ogre waiting for the goats; expect that it’s more like a sleek piece of artwork waiting for the right swell. And today would have been better than good enough but I underestimated and swell and the Green Machine will do just fine in terms of smile wrinkles on my face.

There’s no one out –it’s too early and I’m still asleep. I get back over the fence for a third time being careful not to snag my $600 rubber suit making it useless. I make my way down the muddy slope, booties now covered in a thick red mud, soon washed away by the frigid water. As I reach the shore I look up to see the third wave in a set detonating on the inside boulders. The one behind just beginning to bend into the take off zone and looks like it’s gonna pitch hollow.

I can’t bother to stretch. Instead I take the long paddle out and go slow and steady to warm my muscles. I’m still asleep and the first rays are peaking over the horizon. I make it out and make sure that I’m lined up with the tool shed and driftwood log. Triangulation –everything important comes in threes no? Here comes the first set. I sit and let the first two lift me up and drop me down their backsides like elevators.

The next one looks fat. I turn and stroke, taking the bend in the wave into consideration as I lean on one side to turn the board. I can feel the glide turn to push and I pop up, letting m feet fall naturally on the sweet spots as I race towards the bottom eyeing the spot in the flats where I’ll set the rail, dig my toes and arc back towards the belly. As I come up on the face I can see the crest start to pitch. I suck at getting barrelled, racing away instead to stay ahead of it.

But this time I stick my gloved hand in the face and crouch. It starts to pitch more and suddenly I can hear it! What’s that sound? It doesn’t sound like a void. It’s more like a ringing, a bell, or an alarm. Everything is dark, I’m on my back and I come to. The comforter is completely on my side of the bed and B looks frozen. Dammit. My alarm is going nuts so I switch it off. It’s raining outside again and the sun won’t make much light today. I gotta shower and make breakfast and go to the new job. It was just a dream. Both the Green Machine and the new Bonzer sit under the stairs in their slots, collecting dust and not seeing any action. I miss surfing.


Anonymous said...

Hope the house on the hill was all a dream too.

Rick said...

the house on th hill is for real. not sure about the parking situation yet though.


Anonymous said...

Grrrreat piece ,you let me fall hard at the end.Cheers Corky

Gazelle said...

You know, some people don't even have dreams that good.